Title
The Changing Face of the Charity Shop: do you see what I see?
Summary
The charity shop sector is frequently discussed within the media and most recently there has been an ambitious drive to develop this sector with the aim of steering charity shops away from their fusty and dingy image and into a destination shop for ‘fashionistas’ and bargain hunters alike. (Save the children 2009; Portas 2009) Through carrying out research I aim to discuss whether there is a way of increasing the popularity of charity shops within a nation of ‘fast fashion’ obsessed consumers.
I began my research by looking into the history of charity shops and what their general aims and objectives were. The charity shop is a primarily British institution. The goods presented for sale consist mainly of donated items of clothing. A charity shop’s main aim is to make money for its father charity. They also function as a way of increasing public knowledge of the benefits in recycling quality goods instead of sending them to landfill sites.
Charity shops date back to the late 18th century when the Wolverhampton Society for the Blind opened up a shop in 1899 to sell goods made by blind people to raise funds for the society. In the early 19th century the Salvation Army opened second hand clothing stores to provide the urban poor with cheap clothing.
During the war years many more charities were created and operated shops selling second hand goods to raise money for the war effort and to relieve hardship. However it was not until after the war that Charity shops as we know them today came into existence. The first of these was opened by Oxfam in 1947/48 in Oxford and is still in operation to this day. Oxfam has the largest number of charity shops in the UK with over 700 stores. The majority are run by volunteers, however are supervised by paid managers.
Oxfam has left its former dull and dingy image behind, replacing it with a much more professional and increasingly innovative image, attracting consumers from high street competitors.
Research shows that second hand purchasing is on the increase, not just as a consequence of the recession, but also as a result of a growing desire to support individual small shops in preference to large global companies. Their growth in presence and popularity appears to be despite their lack of innovative window displays that others use to attract passing trade. This is a point worthy of further exploration. In line with changing consumer attitudes and behaviours, charity shop outlets may now have to acknowledge that they need to respond to market trends. Parsons (2002) suggests charity shops offer good quality items at a lower price than high street stores. This coupled with an excitement of finding something different every time one browses serves to create the desire to browse such outlets on a regular basis.
The charity shop is currently developing the second hand concept to encompass style, and innovation. Consumers themselves have created the concept of the charity shop as a hidden treasure trove of exciting and fashionable clothing and accessories with no two garments the same. There is no issue of mass production or obvious unethical issues, just the simple recycling of garments (Fashioning and Ethical Industry 2009).
Currently Barnardos, Save the Children, Oxfam and The British Heart Foundation have all acknowledged the demand for vintage styles and have opened stores or developed areas in store to cater for this trend. Charity shops are recognising the fashion innovators, the money cautious and the ever budding ethical shopper as their future generation of consumers. They realise that ethical issues are not solely an incentive to shop with them although these concerns are becoming more important (Horne et al., 2002). Incentives also include, low cost clothing, the challenge of finding a quality item, unique product offerings and in general, a more exciting place to shop.
Vintage is now a fashion trend popular with all generations. The vintage shop is popping up in many cities; Armstrongs, Bethanys and Herman Browns are but a few of Edinburgh’s finest vintage stores that have appeared in recent years. These shops are popular with students and older consumers alike. Consumer’s nostalgia for past fashions and the celebrity trend for vintage, as portrayed in much media coverage, have created a growth industry (Crewe et al 2003). Premium prices are charged for these second hand products in up -market vintage stores, but charity shops with a similar offering, charging a significantly lower price, are seemingly not being considered. This appears to be illogical considering that it is often the price of products that most influences what the consumer purchase (Parsons 2002).
Urban Outfitter’s recognised the demand for vintage fashion and offers the Urban Renewal Range. Clothes donated to charity are customised, making them funkier and fresher for re-sale. These ‘vintage’ pieces are sold at premium prices as consumers are willing to pay a high price for fashionable pieces in the knowledge that these pieces are unique (Urban Outfitters 2009). The love of “all things vintage” offers a tremendous opportunity to the charity shop sector and therefore makes for an important market to consider. Vintage is now seen as an on trend fashion; being stylish and chic without following high street trends and is an important aspect of individuality for some young consumers (Paul 2009)
Key issues in the literature read thus far have highlighted the development and increase in the popularity of fast fashion with consumers of all ages (Joergens 2006, BBC Thread 2008). Examples of fast fashion retailers are Primark, H&M and Zara. These companies design, produce and have products on the floor as quickly as three weeks after the initial concept is drawn up (Birtwistle et al 2003).
Fast fashion is more popular than ever in what has been referred to as a ‘throw away’ society (Wrigley 2008). Fast fashion aspires to meet fashion trends quickly; however research from Birtwistle et al (2003) highlights the lack of originality within this sector, with many retailers copying each other in an attempt to produce the cheapest styles first.
Fast fashion is recognised as a low cost alternative to a fashionable wardrobe but for many consumers this attitude towards mass consumption is considered unethical (Fashioning an Ethical Industry 2009).
Fast fashion has demanded strategic sourcing and buying from low wage countries in order to meet the product turnaround in stores and so satisfy consumer demand (Bruce et al 2006). Thus the argument of fast fashion culture causing unethical retailing emerges.
Ethical fashion and retailing are topical at present as society acknowledges the importance of ethical consumerism and the problems associated with fast fashion (Mintel 2008, BBC News 2009). Consumers are developing an increased awareness of the importance of ethical fashion and Social Corporate Responsibility (Price Waterhouse Coopers 2001, Smithers 2008). Ethical fashion also involves meeting environmental issues which have emerged in all aspects of retailing such as reducing packaging and recycling (Keynote 2007). In support of this Joergens, (2006,) defines ethical fashion as, "fashionable clothes that incorporate fair trade principles with sweatshop-free labour conditions, while not harming the environment or workers by using biodegradable and organic cotton." Once solely associated with Green activists and radical consumers (EFF 2009), ethical fashion is arguably now the "in" thing and important to consumers from all social entities (Joregens 2006). However, it is important to note that interpretations as to what is ethical fashion are varied (Belk et al 2005).
Ethical fashion is becoming more accepted by consumers of a broad spectrum for its presence and importance in the marketplace. However, it could be argued that future research still needs to be developed to identify how retailers can influence consumers’ attitudes to enhance this market (Retail Week 2008). Consumers acknowledge the importance of being ethical but research shows that very few carry this feeling through to purchase decisions (Hardie 2008). Positively changing the consumers purchase attitude could help reduce the current fast fashion “obsession” which has hit the high street. This “obsession” has sparked several ethical issues and concerns from both consumers and retailers (Butler 2008). These include use of child labour, excess packaging and recycling in the store environment (Birtwistle et al 2007).
Chapter Synopsis
Introduction
The introduction will provide some background information, which will serve to inform the reader of my chosen topic area. My aims and objectives of the study will also be discussed. The introductory chapter will conclude with the research questions which will be addressed in this study.
Chapter 1
Charities shops have been in existence since the late 18th century. This chapter will examine the origins of the charity shop and the ways in which they have evolved over time to present day. Key terms will also be defined.
Chapter 2
Will incorporate an examination of related research, including a review of relevant literature which has investigated consumer attitudes towards the purchase of second hand clothing from charity shops. Research shows that positive attitudes exist towards charity shops and this is often translated into buying behaviour. However others do not purchase goods from them. This may be due to the fact that people experience barriers to buying or fail to appreciate the benefits of doing so.
Chapter 3
I will investigate and provide evidence to show that there are different motivations for purchasing goods from charity shops. One motivation may be due to ethical reasons. A further motivation may be financial due to the current economic climate.
This chapter will also make reference to the world of fast fashion. I will investigate the environmental and social consequences it will have on the world.
Summary and Conclusion
This chapter will present the findings of the research undertaken in this project. The results will be analysed and conclusions will be outlined in relation to my research questions.
Proposed Timetable
20th April- 31st July- This time will be spent gathering primary and secondary research, sourcing contacts to interview and preparing questions for interview/questionnaires.
1st August- 31st August- Write and finish introduction, 1st draft of dissertation chapters. Ongoing research and reading.
1st September- 1st October- Allocated time to carry out interviews/questionnaires. First draft of introduction and main chapters to be completed for first dissertation meeting.
2nd October- 1st November- Conclusion to be written and final draft to be finished.
2nd November- 20th November- Proof read/ correct spelling etc
21st November- 6th December- Time for final checks and time allocated to print out.
7th December- Final hand in date for dissertation.
Aims
· To undertake research to further understand both consumer attitudes and purchasing behaviour, with reference to second hand clothing from charity shop outlets.
· It is hoped that the project will contribute to our understanding of second hand clothing marketing in the UK.
· It is anticipated that the findings from this study will provide insights into ways of developing the popularity of charity shopping.
· Through carrying out research I aim to discuss whether there is a way of increasing the popularity of charity shops within a nation of ‘fast fashion’ obsessed consumers.
Objectives
· To review texts, papers and journals relevant to my chosen topic area which will provide a comprehensive overview of perceived attitudes and barriers towards the purchase of goods from charity shops.
· To understand the factors that influence purchasing behaviours made by young consumers with regard to second hand clothing, whilst accessing their significance in decision making.
· To conduct a questionnaire and a number of face to face interviews to ensure topics of interest are included, whilst allowing me to explore emerging issues further. This should serve to determine the opinions of consumers in Edinburgh towards shopping in charity shops. Variables that attract consumers to shop in charity shops will also be identified.
Keywords
Charity retail, consumers, ethical consumer, vintage, fast fashion, conforming behaviour, charity shop chic, economic recession.
Bibliography
Alexander, A., Cryer, D., and Wood, S., (2008) Location planning in charity retailing. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management. Vol 36 (7) pp 536-550 Emerald Group Publishing Ltd
This journal provides information on locational planning in the charity retail sector. I found this useful as it examines why charity shops are strategically placed on our high streets.
BBC News., (2008) Business: Fast fashion nation (online) Available from:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/7349954.stm [Accessed 1st June 2011]
This is a useful article on ‘Fast Fashion’. It examines businesses fulfilling the demand for fast fashion and how they have resorted to employing countries with cheaper labour forces.
Belk, R., Devinney, T., Eckhardt, G., (2005) Consumer ethics across cultures. Consumption, Markets and Culture. Vol 8 (3) pp 275-289
The authors investigate the discrepancy between the issues consumers claim to feel strongly about and their actual purchasing behaviour. They conducted a series of interviews with consumers from eight different countries. This showed consumers were not particuallry concerned with ethical issues and are largely ill informed regarding such things. They also found that consunmers ethical behaviour can be influenced by improved ethical behaviour from the business itself. This will be an important point to draw from in my project.
Birtwistle, G. and Moore, C,M., (2007) Fashion Clothing – Where does it all end up? International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management. Vol. 35 (3)
This journal highlights the lack of originality within fast fashion retailing and examines ethical issues concerning child labour.
Bruce, M,. and Daley, L., (2006) Buyer behaviour for fast fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. Vol. 10 (3) pp 329-244.
This Journal looks at consumer buying behaviour as well as consumer driven trends and compares fast fashion retailers with non-fast fashion retailers.
Butler,S., (2008) Cheap Clothes, Clean Conscience 2009. The Guardian [online] Available from: http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2008/aug/28/ethicalliving.recycling [Accessed 25th May 2011]
Journalist Sarah Butler examines how fast fashion is contributing to the growing amount of domestic waste in Britain. She then explains that fashion experts are clearly noting a change in consumer buying behaviour attitude towards charity shopping.
Carroll, C., (2005) Case Study 11 “Fast Fashion”: exploring how retailers get affordable fashion on to the high street. In: Foundations of Marketing.
This case study explores how retailers manage to fulfil the demand for fast affordable fashion on the high street. This study relates to my research of ethical sourcing of retail.
Carrigan, M., Attalla. (2001) The Myth of the Ethical Consumer –do ethics matter in purchase behaviour? Journal of Consumer Marketing. Vol 18 (7) pp 560-577
Consumer attitudes regarding ethical behaviour are examined. The effects of positive and negative ethical conducts on purchase behaviour are also discussed. Contrary to popular belief, focus group discussions reveal the modern consumer fails to consistently support ethical companies. In keeping with the focus of my research the article highlights ways in which consumers can be encouraged to change their purchasing habits.
Carrigan, M. & De Pelsmacker, P. (2009), Will ethical consumers sustain their values in the global credit crunch?, International Marketing Review, Vol.16 (6), pp. 674-687, online at http://www.emeraldinsight.com
This paper has particular relevance to my project as the authors explore the impact upon consumers and marketers of the current global recession. They also discuss evidence which suggests that the demand for ethical products will decline as people opt for discount retail outlets rather than consuming ethically.
De, Pelsmacker,P., Driessen, L., Rayp, G.(2005) Do consumers care about ethics? Willingness to pay for fair trade coffee. Journal of Consumer Affairs. Vol 39 (2) pp 361-383
This study highlights the discrepancy between consumer attitudes towards ethical products and their purchase behaviour towards goods such as coffee. This issue will also be examined with regards to purchasing second hand clothing from charity shops.
Ethical Fashion Forum (2009) The Issues. Ethical Fashion Forum EFF (online) Available from:
http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues [Accessed 15th June 2011]
The Ethical Fashion Forum gives a detailed description of the various workings of ethical fashion from fair-trade to alternative fibres.
Fashioning an Ethical Industry. A Labour Behind the Label Project. (2009) [online] Available from:www.fashioningandethicalindustry.org [Accessed 1st June 2011]
The education project of labour behind the label is based in the UK. The project works with students and tutors on fashion related courses and aims to ensure that all fashion courses across the UK acknowledge and embed ethical issues in the curriculum. This is an attempt to improve standards for workers in the fashion industry of the future.
Horne, S., Maddrell, A. (2002) Charity Shops: Retailing consumption and society. Illustrated Edition. Routledge. Pp 110-145
This informative book provides the first overview of the history and development of the charity shop. Drawing from a variety of disciplines, such as retailing and marketing, this text provides a wealth of material on this topic.
Joergens, C. (2006) Ethical Fashion: myth or future trend. Emerald Group Publishing Limited Vol 3 (10) Pp.360-366.
This text provides students with an overview of the cultural and economic significance of the global fashion industry. It is of particular relevance to my project as it provides an overview of fashion consumption whilst considering ethical decision-making concerning consumption.
Keynote., (2010) The Fashion Industry. [online] Available from:
www.keynote.co.uk/kn2k1/10570_03//doc_29.htm?uni=1240093543 [Accessed 18th May 2011].
The key note market report examines the UK clothing market. It reports that consumer spending on clothing increased 12.5% between 2006 and 2010. Key note believes the clothing retail market is expected to grow 6.2% between 2011 and 2015.
Mintel., (2009), Ethical Clothing 2009 [online] Available from:
http://academic.mintel.com/sinatra/oxygen_academic/search_results/show&/display/id=393875 [Accessed 3rd July 2011]
This report examines consumer awareness and concern with issues such as sustainability and ethical production.
Oxfam., (2011) Oxfam Boutiques: Beating poverty with style 2011. [online] Available from:
http://www.oxfam.org.uk/shop/content/boutique/default.aspx [Accessed 22nd June 2011]
The Oxfam website provides a comprehensive overview of the Charities activities including an online store.
Parsons, Elizabeth (2002) ‘Charity retail: past, present and future’ International
Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Volume 30, Number 12 pp: 586-594
Paul, N., (2009) Vintage clothes shopping in Glasgow and Edinburgh. The List (online) Available from:
http://www.list.co.uk/article/20825-vintage-clothes-shopping-in-glasgow-and-edinburgh/ [Accessed 29th June 2011]
This student guide provides information on the best vintage stores in Edinburgh and Glasgow.
Shaw,D., Newholm, T. (2007) Studying the Ethical Consumer: A review of research. Journal of Consumer Behaviour. Vol (6) pp 253-270
The authors draw attention to the fact that the study of ethical consumption is growing. They compare ‘real world’ and ‘virtual worlds’ consumption whilst considering how ‘alternative’ consumer life styles and developments in marketing can influence our moral decision making.
Smithers, R., (2008) Ethical concerns left at home as demand for cheap clothes surges. The Guardian 2009 [online] Available from:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2008/jan/30/retail.asda [Accessed 5th May 2011]
Article written on how we as a nation have become obsessed with cheap and cheerful high street fashion, highlighting the current trend referred to in my project.
The Independent (2006) Buy it, wear it, chuck it: the price of fast fashion. (online) Available from:
http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/buy-it-wear-it-chuck-it-the-price-of-fast-fashion-426555.html [Accessed 27 June 2011]
This article investigates the ‘throw away’ culture. It examines the demand for cheap clothes and the sustainability of the ‘fast fashion’ trend.
Wheale, P., and Hinton, D. (2007) Ethical Consumers in search of markets. Business Strategy and the Environment. Vol 16 (4) pp 302-116
Wrigley, P., (2008) Drapers News Analysis: Speech from Draper’s Fashion Summit. Drapers
This online magazine provides an exclusive view into the fashion market.